The arancina is not Sicilian: it was brought by the Saracens in distant times. It was a simple peasant dish that came about through trial and adjustment. It is typically Arab, made of rice scented with saffron and herbs, enriched with vegetables, spices and pieces of meat. Originally it was a one-dish meal served in large quantities, like couscous, so that diners, in the Tunisian manner, ate straight from the tray with their hands. One day, to carry the delicious dish, the Arabs rolled the rice into a ball that looked like an orange and could be transported. That is why at the court of Frederick II the crispy breadcrumb coating was invented: it kept the rice fresh for longer and made the parcel firm and sturdy enough to take on journeys or hunting trips. This little ball made only of rice originally contained nothing. The filling, with butter or tomato, arrived only a few centuries later. Today arancine come with ragù, with butter, with mozzarella and tomato, with spinach and aubergine and even with chocolate, and on 13 December, in honour of Saint Lucy, the people of Palermo feast on them.
Elena Beninati
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